Atco Royale B30 Manual Transfer

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Atco Royale B30 Manual Transfer 5,8/10 930reviews

Normal topic, Engine Manual for Villiers MK 1 Midget 79cc. 2 Stroke by Deejay » Mon, - 03:32, 2, by Deejay. Normal topic, Atco Royale B30 Cylinder Details by hillsider » Sat, - 13:58, 2. Normal topic, 1922 ATCO standard - Transfers and brass tank? By Mike » Tue, - 21:29, 2, by Mike. Model ROYALE B30; Refine Your Selection. Handles; See all part types. Genuine spare part for select. Atco Cylinder Lawn Mower Spare Parts. Exploded drawings and spare. Atco Royale B24. The first mention in the parts manual is 1986. Definitely an Atco with a trailered seat 24' cut but does have remnants of a royal.

Hi I am restoring a 1987 atco royal b30,I am now trying to connect the throttle cable mechanism under the carb to the vertical rod which goes from the end of the throttle cable to the top of the carb. There are two seperate rotating plates connected by a spring. Does anyone have a photo or diagram of how this is connected, I have hummed and harred about it for hours and cant work it out.

It was connected when I got it and it worked,but on changing the tank to carb gasket it pulled apart. I know it is in an awkward position but would appreciate any help.

Atco Royale B30 Manual Transfer

Thanks Paul Leslie. Hi, That's ok, from what I have seen I would think that your missing link is of Briggs and Stratton origin. I have looked at some of the parts lists available via the Atco parts finder and have not found anything that looks like the parts you are seeking.

Hopefully someone will pop up here and give us a clue to resolve the problem. Another alternative would be to seek the help of someone who has more experience of this model. There are a couple of links to companies to be found on this site if you look in the club information section. Good luck Ray.

Dear All, I am about to collect my mower from a repair shop as the price for repair is beyond what I can bring myself to spend on it. So I have decided to take the mower on as a project and try to get it working myself. The mower dates back to the '80's, I believe. It is complete, but well used, with a Briggs & Stratton engine. The main issue is it's reluctance to reliably engage the cylinder drive. The repairer claims that wear to the end of the shaft on the cylinder is the culprit, with a new part priced in excess of £300.

My thoughts are to get the mower back, dismantle it, see if I can get the most expensive part machined, and restore it to working condition. Sonicstage 4.3 Offline Installer. I am new to the club and will no doubt be asking for comments and advice as the project proceeds. I am reasonable familiar with old BMW motorbikes, but the peculiarities of mowers are something that I am about to be come accustomed with (with a little help from my friends!). I am unable to post pictures yet (as I have yet to collect it), but any thoughts/opinions/advice would be most welcome. I have about 1/2 an acre of lawn that would benefit from being rolled, whilst being cut, with this type of mower. I noticed on a previous post that Wristpin recommended a Webb 24 with belt drive as a weapon of choice.

Comments as to it's suitability for my purpose would also be welcomed. The Atco is a beast to manouvre and it appears that the Webb's can be had for reasonable prices.

Many thanks in anticipation of your help. Regards, Steve. Not sure about wear on the shaft until we see an image but the Atco 24/30 was prone to wear on the blade drive engagement dogs resulting from being run out of adjustment and perhaps heavy handed treatment. Something to be aware of is that during production of the 24/30 they switched from BSF threads to UNF threads with associated changes to the cylinder drive dogs etc. If your machine had a Briggs engine from new it will almost certainly be UNF but if it started life with a Tecumseh or even a Villiers it will probably be BSF. My preference for the original belt drive Webb 24 is purely a personal thing and not necessarily a recommendation!

It was a softer machine to drive and was not any the worse for being belt drive so long as they were properly adjusted. It was amazing how many so called mower repairers appeared to be unaware of how to set them up. However one thing that is for sure is that parts for the belt driven Webb will be far more difficult to obtain. The Atco has the advantage of still being in production under the Allett umbrella as the Buckingham and as far as I am aware uses the same drive components. Ideally post some images of the offending parts with as much of an explanation of what you have been told as possible.

If your repairer has reassembled the drive mechanism and you start to pull it apart be aware that the hexagonal sleeve on which the drive gears engage and slide is a splined push fit on the end of the cutting cylinder - the hexagon has been known to invite the application of a long handled spanner with the consequent twisting of the sleeve! If by any chance the splines on the cutting cylinder are worn to the extent that the sleeve is slipping it is time for a new cylinder of a visit to a well equipped and clued up machine shop: this may account for the size of the estimate. Download Socks Escort on this page. I will sort out a parts breakdown of the drive mechanism and add it to this post later. EDIT Here are two parts diagrams.